Upstairs - the authentic Italian restaurant.

Opposite the famous Santa Cruz Basilica, on Bastian Lane, on the top floor of a line of shops, magnificently designed and aptly named is the Upstairs Italian Restaurant.
Dash up the wooden stairs of this hub and you’re led into a simple yet inviting hotel that can accommodate around 40. Ayesha and Fabio the owners are at your service, guiding you to select the best of Italy. A variety of dishes await you on the menu card- lasagna, pasta, pizza, salads, sea foods and crepes. The day’s special, written in colourful chalk on slates, will tempt you. Though some of them sound Greek and Latin to you, with proper guidance, you’ll learn what Italian cuisine comprises.
You can have breakfast, lunch or dinner at Upstairs which opens at 8.30a.m and closes by 10 p.m on any day but Tuesday. Upstairs offers a wide range of vegetarian and non vegetarian delicacies. Take away is also available.

Munch and have fun.

For a virtul Italian experience visit http://www.upstairs-italianrestaurant.com/

Shop n Save – Shopping made easy

When it comes to quick and hassle free shopping, there’s one particular name that pops up in the minds of tourists, foreigners and locals alike – Shop n Save. Tucked in line with majestic old buildings, Shop n Save is located in Princess Street, the business street of Fort Cochin. Literally just as it is named, you save when you shop at Shop n Save.
The double storied building that houses the shop, has a lot in the offing for the ultimate traveler. Travelling accessories, packed food stuff, stationery, souvenirs, toys, cutlery, utensils and toiletries are just the tip of the ice berg. Apart from this, Shop n Save has a book store where one can own books at a nominal rate. Shop n Save also has to its credit a restaurant on the top floor, which caters to a wide variety of food- Continental, Chinese and Indian. Adding to this, it also has a counter that sells Indian musical instruments.
This isn’t all, Shop n Save also helps you keep in touch with the world. Sify I way, the largest retail Internet café brand in India, has its outlet in Shop n Save. One can have access to the net, at very low rates. It is guaranteed that you’ll be thrown off your feet with the wonderful ambience of the place and the warm and courteous attitude of the staff.

Bastion Bungalow

Bastion Bungalow is an architectural splendor, which was built in 1667 by the Portuguese in the Indo - European style. It was constructed on what has been considered the Dutch Stromberg Bastion. This building blends beautifully into the circular structure of the bastion. It has a tiled roof and a typical first floor verandah in wood along its front portion. Noticeable mainly because of its Dutch style architecture and built into the ramparts of a massive fortification wall, it immediately arouses the curiosity of the passer-by. A name plaque on one side of the wall announces that it is the Sub-Collector's residence. It had a brush with glamour when it was hired out to a Hollywood film unit, 'Cotton Mary', which is a Merchant-Ivory production. Bastion Bungalow is located at the end of Church Road in Fort Cochin and it has been declared a protected monument by the State Archaeology Department.

Dutch Palace

Also known as the Mattancherry palace, the Dutch palace with its medieval charm is situated at Palace Road, Mattancherry, hardly 4 Kms from Fort Cochin. Built by the Portuguese and presented to the Raja of Kochi Veera Kerala Varma (1537-65) in 1555 AD, it took on its present popular name 'Dutch Palace' after 1663, when the Dutch carried out some extensions and renovations in the palace. The rajas also made more improvements to it. Today, it is a portrait gallery of the Cochin Rajas and notable for some of the best mythological murals in India, which are in the best traditions of Hindu Temple Art.
The entrance to the Mattancherry Palace compound is through two arches which are typically Portuguese in character and a flight of steps through a portico on the south, gives access to a suite of public rooms on the upper level of the palace. The Palace with two floors built around a central courtyard follows the traditional Kerala style of architecture known as 'nalukettus'. From the outside, the palace looks European in character with scraped masonry walls and round-headed windows and doors but its sloping tiled roof and wooden balconies are indigenous features.
Inside the inner court, there stands a small temple dedicated to 'Pazhayannur Bhagavati', the protective goddess of the Kochi Royal family. Two more temples are situated on either side of the Palace dedicated to Lord Krishna and Lord Siva. The palace, with the interiors panelled with wood has exhibits of the Rajas of Kochi like ceremonial robes, headdresses, weapons, palanquins, furniture but the main feature is the series of astonishing murals, depicting scenes from the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, and the Puranic legends connected with Shiva, Vishnu, Krishna, Kumara, and Durga painted on the walls as well as the portraits of the rajas. The paintings cover a wide range of themes from the 'Puthra Kameshti Yagam' to Rama's return to Ayodya after vanquishing King Ravana of Lanka. The paintings totally cover nearly 1000 sq.ft in area and date from early as the 16th century through mid nineteenth century and are found in the bedchambers on the west side of the palace, in four chambers upstairs, and in two low ceiling rooms that are entered by a steep stairway. These beautiful and extensive paintings are fine examples of Kerala mural paintings best known for its unique style than the technique.
The king's bedchamber or 'Palliyara' left of the entrance occupying the southwest corner of the Palace is noteworthy with its low wooden ceiling and 300 sq feet of wall surface covered in about 48 paintings illustrating the Ramayana, from the beginning of the sacrifice of Dasaratha to Sita's return from captivity in Lanka. These paintings are the earliest in the palace, dating as early as 16th century. The last five scenes are from the 'Krishna Lila' where in a cheerful God Krishna using his six hands and two feet to engage in foreplay with eight happy milkmaids. Another important series of paintings in the Dutch Palace is found in the upper staircase rooms, notably that of the coronation hall that was made under Dutch patronage. Among the compositions are Lakshmi seated on the lotus, sleeping Vishnu (Ananthasayanamurti), Shiva and Parvati seated with Ardhanariswara and other goddesses, the coronation of Rama, Krishna lifting Mount Govardhana etc. On the opposite side of the coronation hall is the staircase room or Kovinithalam (Room No II) , with a descent to the lower storey and four paintings belonging to Shiva, Vishnu and Devi, one incomplete. The ladies chambers below the stairway are closed off to visitors. Room No. IV depict scenes from Kumarasambhavam and other works of the great Sanskrit poet Kalidasa.
The eastern rectangular chambers across the rosewood covered main hall is entered through a steep stairway and an entrance porch with finely carved and painted ceiling. The first of the eastern chambers is marked by fabulous scenes of Vishnu and Siva iconography and just beyond it to the left is a small room with an unfinished but bold image of Vishnu as 'Vaikunthanatha'. These are among the latest works in the palace. The Dining Hall has carved wooden ornate ceiling decorated with a series of brass cups. The palace also contains rare examples of traditional Kerala flooring, which looks like polished black marble but is actually a mixture of burned coconut shells, charcoal, lime, plant juices and egg whites.

Thakur House

Thakur House was earlier known as Kunal or Hill Bungalow. It was built on the site of the sea facing Gelderland Bastion, (one of the seven bastions of the old Dutch fort) in the late 1700s. With graceful lines reflecting the leisurely lifestyle of the colonial era, it exudes a quiet grandeur. Nestled amidst neatly manicured lawns, Thakur House is isolated from the noise and bustle of the nearby Chinese Fishing Nets and Fort Kochi bus stop. Thakur House sports several trademarks of Dutch architecture, with its wooden floors, spacious rooms and large bay windows. Sparkling crystal and earthen pottery adorn tables and shelves, and ancient glass lamps hang from the rafters. It is an art-lover's paradise, for several paintings, decorates the walls of the rooms. But, the most beautiful scenery of all lies right outside the window - the Arabian Sea stretching away to the horizon. There have been instances when it served maritime operations and military defense purposes against invaders. Hence the secret tunnels that lie beneath the house.

To know more about this ancient bungalow that still stands strong on the shores of Fort Cochin click the following link that leads you to a web page that was posted by "The Hindu", a leading news paper in India.

http://www.hindu.com/thehindu/mp/2002/07/01/stories/2002070101030200.htm

The Dutch Cemetery

The 282-year-old Dutch Cemetery in Fort Kochi is considered to be an authentic record of hundreds of Europeans - both the Dutch and the English - who arrived in India to expand their colonial empire. It is the oldest European cemetery in India. Consecrated in 1724, the cemetery has 104 tombs. It is now being looked after by St. Francis CSI Church, Fort Kochi, which has the tomb of Vasco-Da-Gama. Though the cemetery remains closed for most of the day (for fear of anti-social elements entering the place), it is opened on requests made by visitors.
The 104 tombs in the cemetery are a record of prominent Europeans who changed the history of the land. The interest among tourists from Europe to visit the cemetery is so much that constant requests are made to church authorities to open the gates. With passage of time, the layer of plaster over the laterite stones in many of the tombs had withered away. Preventing further destruction of the cemetery, the tombs were replastered with a mix of lime mixture which cost a fortune but helped give the tombs back their old look. As of now, the church shells out money to pull out weeds and ensure the cleanliness of the place.
Tombstones of important personalities buried here have been preserved in the church.
What welcomes visitors to the cemetery which is tucked away behind the end of the walkway running parallel to the beach, is its heavy walls. The original calligraphic inscription `1724' at the entrance pillar has been preserved to date. The unique feature of the tombs is that none of them carry a cross, unlike in modern tombs. Both the big and small tombs resemble the Dutch architecture of the period. The inscriptions on them are in the old Dutch script. A record of persons buried here has been maintained in the church.
Reference has been made to the cemetery in the book St Francis Church, Cochin, by T.W. Venn in 1930. Venn says that the last burial took place in the cemetery in 1913 when Captain Joseph Ethelbert Winckler was laid to rest. The British Cemetery at Veli, which dates back to 1804, too is being managed by the church.

Signal Tower in the Park

An old painting, at the Fort Kochi Corporation office, is perhaps the only surviving, visual evidence of the signal tower that stood at the centre of the Nehru Park, centuries ago
An old watercolour that hangs on the wall of the Fort Kochi Corporation tells the story of what the present day Fort Kochi Square was centuries ago. This one enables the reconstruction of the romantic past riddled by tales of war and peace. It tells the history of trade and treachery, of colonies and churches, of marauders and merchants that Fort Cochin is built on.
The work is signed but illegible and is of course oblivious of the story it tells. Relegated amidst the files, calendars and notice boards of a government office, the surviving painting shows the old signal tower that stood at the centre of what is today the Nehru Park. Reconstructing from chronicles of the past, the area was the hub of all sea-faring activities that brought the traders and the colonists to the shores of Kochi. And so the Portuguese, the Dutch and finally the English left their imprint on the area.
It was a busy signal tower as it communicated with the approaching ships and sent out signals locally too. A basket, a cage, flags, torchlight were all used as signals. A signal was put up when a ship laden with goods was coming. With it the locals knew what was required to board the ship. If coir was to be shipped out they got busy assembling the produce. Likewise for pepper and other spices. It signalled to fishermen about inclement weather or about sickness on board, a passing or approaching ship. This signal tower was brought down and the remains were razed completely much later when the foundation of the park was laid. The three buildings seen in the painting were the port office, the gear shed and the coal shed. In fact, the Chinese fishing net next to the coal shed is called `Karipura'. Opposite the tower was the Old Harbour Hotel, which housed sailors, and officers who alighted. As the signal station had a tower the road was named Tower Road and remains so till today."
The signal station is no more. At the children's park where it once stood, kids play on swings and slides, their laughter filling the air. Fairy lights and fountains come alive in the evenings; hawkers sell, travellers walk around. There is a strange serenity around this rain tree-lined park.
Quite a contrast, for it was here mutinies rose and fell, fearful exchange of fire shots resounded; the troops marched; merchandise was bartered. It was here that an unseen filtering of culture took place many, many years ago. Now all that exists as memory of this landmark is this forgotten painting on the wall of the Corporation office.

Le Colonial

This history house in Fort Cochin is probably Asia’s oldest colonial house dating back to 1506. Standing elegantly adjacent to St. Francis Church, it is reputed to have have been home to Vasco da Gama and the Saint. After 150 years as the Portuguese Governor’s home, it then housed the Dutch Governor Ian vas Spall until it was sold to the British in 1795. They passed it on to J. Thomas, the legendary traders of tea. The 500 years of history contained within its walls have now been restored and embellished with modern comfort. The colonial bungalows here have stood mute witnesses to history for the past 500 since the Portuguese arrived.

Now its occupants will be treated to a fabulous collection of art and artifacts belonging to the French businessman John Persenda, that adorn the walls, shelves and the refurbished settings. From a Cartier Bresson print to etchings, oils, engravings, objects of art and sketches of the colonial times, the theme at Le Colonial will be to reveal the past. So alive come the times of battles fought, of sieges, of surrender, victory and defeat. If you wish for a holiday with art history, it’s right here.The over 200 works, chosen, bought and collected from Western auction houses and from art dealers in New Delhi, Cape Town and Paris, give this seven suite hotel a complete “non-hotel” experience. So romantic is the theme, the collection and the style, so in keeping with the character of the place that as you sit on a wicker chair and sip tea in the verandah, history sits along with you. The present halts and the past unfolds.Essence of the past the rare Daniells catch the spirit of the times just as the military prints once again raise the heat and dust of bloody battles. Yes, the brandishing of swords, the neighing of the horses as they rise on their hind legs, the proud death of Tipu Sultan, the formal signing of a treaty are all there as fabulous prints. The seven suites are named to the theme. The Viceroy suite has sketches depicting the attire of the 1930 Royals, while the flora and fauna of the times, etched by “historical painters” to the “royal highness the Duke and Duchess of York” adorn the ADC room. The Vasco Da Gama suite has a bright, ruddy portrait print of the historic trader and a fantastic sketch of him done by Anjolie Ela Menon (1978). The contrast is superb. A moving engraving, a print from the “Plate representing the Departure of the sons of Tippoo from the zenana, by F. Bartelozzi, engraver to His majesty’s sculptor” is the arresting frame in the Tipu Sultan suite. Another historic moment, Hyder Ali receiving Admiral De Suffren, completes the theme of this room.

A touch of France is given to the Mahe de la Boudonnais room with 18th century French prints which have been with the Persenda family for four generations. (Mr. Persenda’s grandfather was in the artillery in Mesopotamia in 1914.)A portrait of a young Lord Clive dons the anteroom along with a small oil of the young Queen Victoria, four large prints of the surrender of Tipu Sultan’s sons and related works. Portrait prints of Dutch commanders in the Malabar, of the VOC (Vereenigde Oostindische Campagnie: The United Dutch East India Company), all 20 of them, line up the wooden stairway, resplendent in the attire of the times. The staircase foyer is lit up with three exquisite oils: of Queen Victoria, an Indian maharaja beautifully placed on an easel, and a huge work of a warrior holding a horse in front of a fort. Corridors, passages, verandahs and even the rest rooms have paintings of the Raj. Labour of loveTopies, helmets, caps worn by soldiers and a sailor cap with HMS Ganges are also on display and gold bound books on the history of the Dutch in Malabar are there for your reading pleasure. One can see how collating this rare and rich collection has been a labour of love for Mr. Persenda as he narrates an interesting incident about how that sale act of the property, 1795, between the Dutch (Jan Van Spall) and the British (Major Petrie) got misplaced at the framer’s but was finally found!Interesting artifacts like a small statue of an African with his cross and helmet, from the kingdom of Benin, alerts you to the fact that the Portuguese had come to India from Africa. Such historical cues fill the timeless puzzle of the past, the pictures narrate the story in detail and the expressions of the people in the pictures, in a strange sort of way, have something to do with our present.

VOC Gate

A bond issued by the Dutch East India Company, dating from 7 November 1623, for the amount of 2,400 florins

The Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie or VOC in old-spelling Dutch, literally "United East Indian Company") was established in 1602, when the States-General of the Netherlands granted it a 21-year monopoly to carry out colonial activities in Asia. It was the first multinational corporation in the world and the first company to issue stock.Facing the parade ground is this large wooden gate with the initials 'VOC' carved onto it representing the monogram of the once mighty Dutch East India Company. The inscription also indicates that it was built in the year 1740.

The VOC traded throughout Asia. Ships coming into Batavia from the Netherlands carried silver from Spanish mines in Peru and supplies for VOC settlements in Asia. Silver, combined with copper from Japan, was used to trade with India and China for textiles. These products, such as cotton, silk and ceramics, were either traded within Asia for the coveted spices or brought back to Europe. The VOC was also instrumental in introducing European ideas and technology to Asia. The Company supported Christian missionaries and traded modern technology with China and Japan.
By 1669, the VOC was the richest private company the world had ever seen, with over 150 merchant ships, 40 warships, 50,000 employees, a private army of 10,000 soldiers, and a dividend payment of 40%. The Dutch were ousted at the 1741 Battle of Colachel by Nairs of Travancore under Raja Marthanda Varma. The Dutch commander Captain Eustachius De Lannoy was captured. Marthanda Varma agreed to spare the Dutch captain's life on condition that he joined his army and trained his soldiers on modern lines. This defeat in the Travancore-Dutch War is considered the earliest example of an organized Asian power overcoming European military technology and tactics; and it signaled the decline of Dutch power in India.

Koonan Kurishu - The Leaning Cross

The Koonan Kurishu situated in the congested and busy Mattancherry bazaar is spiritual solace to believers and a completely different stop on the travel map of tourists. This small chapel houses a leaning wooden cross with an emotional and sanctifying history behind it.On hearing about the persecution suffered by his flock in Malankara, the Patriarch of Antioch, Mor Ignatius Ahathulla, set out to Malankara in 1653. He was captured by the Portuguese en route and was taken to Madras. Two Syrian Christian deacons from Malankara, Itty and Kurian, who were on pilgrimage to Mylapore heard about the incident. They managed to meet Mor Ahathulla and secured a 'Statikon' from him appointing Archdeacon Thomas as the episcopa of Malankara [with the condition that a proper ordination would be obtained as soon as the situation permitted]. In the meantime, Mor Ahathulla was brought to Cochin. On hearing about his arrival, hoards of Syrian Christians rushed to the Cochin Port to free their holy father. They were unable to free Mor Ahathulla. He was taken to Goa in a ship and burnt on the stake. But news spread that he was drowned in the Arabian Sea with a millstone tied to his neck. As the news of this cruelty spread, the Syrian Christians were on the verge of an emotional outburst.

On 3rd January 1653 AD at Mattancherry, under the leadership of Archdeacon Thomas and a Knanaya priest, Anjilimmoottil Ittythomman Kathanar (Rev. Itty Thomas), about 25000 Syrian Christians held on to a rope tied to a leaning cross (an ancient assyrian cross that had become leaning with the passage of centuries) and pledged to never surrender to Portuguese Archbishop of Goa, Francis Garcia under the Roman yoke and always remain under the Holy Apostolic See of Antioch maintaining their ancient rites and traditions. Rev. Itty Thomas was the main organizer of the rally for Koonan Cross Oath. This historic event is known as the Koonen Kurishu Sathyam (The Leaning Cross Oath).

How to get to the cross: This Holy Cross is hardly a Kilometer away from Fort Cochin, easily accessible by road.

Chinese fishing nets

The Chinese fishing nets (locally known as 'Cheena vala') are fixed land installations for an unusual form of fishing — shore operated lift nets. Huge mechanical contrivances hold out horizontal nets of 20 m or more across. Each structure is at least 10 m high and comprises a cantilever with an outstretched net suspended over the sea and large stones suspended from ropes as counterweights at the other end. Each installation is operated by a team of up to six fishermen. The system is sufficiently balanced that the weight of a man walking along the main beam is sufficient to cause the net to descend into the sea. The net is left for a short time, possibly just a few minutes, before it is raised by pulling on ropes. The catch is usually modest: a few fish and crustaceans — these may be sold to passers by within minutes. The system of counterweights is most ingenious. Rocks, each 30 cm or so in diameter are suspended from ropes of different lengths. As the net is raised, some of the rocks one-by-one come to rest on a platform thereby keeping everything in balance. Consequently, an individual net cannot be continually operated in tidal waters. Different installations will be operated depending on the state of the tide.
It is received wisdom that the nets are Chinese in origin. This is not as improbable as the 5,000 km distance from China might suggest. The Chinese fishing nets have become a very popular tourist attraction, their size and elegant construction is very photogenic and the slow rhythm of their operation is quite hypnotic. In addition, catches can be purchased individually and need be taken only a short distance to a street entrepreneur who will cook it.These huge cantilevered fishing nets are the legacy of one of the first visitors to Malabar Coast. Erected here between 1350 and 1450 AD by traders from the Court of Kubla khan, these nets are set up on teak wood and bamboo poles. The chinese fishing nets found here are the only ones of its kind in India.

Fort Cochin- Now

Fort Cochin, once an obscure fishing hamlet and a slice of the earth that has been ruled by various super powers of the foregone past - the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, is now a much sort tourist destination and a must stop hot spot on the travel map of the world. A land myriad in culture, customs and creed, Fort Cochin is a melting pot of varied diversity. It is located in the district of Ernakulam,in the state of Kerala, in the country India. Sobriqueted The Queen of the Arabian Sea, Fort Cochin has a wonderful contour. A few minutes walk from this small town takes you to its beach and a few minutes drive off city limits lands you under milky white waterfalls. This isn't all. You can even opt for a cruise through the Vembanad Lake or even take a stroll down the scenic and colonial streets flooded with shops and vendors selling artifacts and antiques. If China is the place where you make your money, definitely Fort Cochin is the place to spend it.

Fort Cochin- Once Upon a Time

Once a fishing village of no significance in the Kingdom of Kochi in the pre-colonial Kerala, the territory that would be later known as Fort Kochi was granted to the Portuguese in 1503 by the Rajah of Kochi, who also gave them permission to build a fort near the waterfront to protect their commercial interests. The first part of the name Fort Kochi comes from this fort, Fort Emmanuel, which was later destroyed by the Dutch. Behind the fort, the Portuguese built their settlement and a wooden church, which was rebuilt in 1516 as a permanent structure and which today is known as the St Francis Church. Fort Kochi remained a Portuguese possession for 160 years. In 1683 the Dutch captured the territory from the Portuguese, destroyed many Portuguese, particularly Catholic, institutions including convents. The Dutch held Fort Kochi as their possession for 112 years until 1795, when the British took control by defeating the Dutch. Four hundred and forty four years of foreign control of Fort Kochi ended in 1947 with the Indian independence. A mix of old Portuguese, Dutch and British houses from these colonial periods line the streets of Fort Kochi.